2013 chevy cruze head gasket replacement

I have a 37 gallon tank for a 6-7" shell Red Ear Slider. I've been using a Rena/Filstar - XP3/XPL canister filter for about 16-17 years (rated for approx. 100 gallons I believe). I've replaced some o-rings and gaskets and one impeller. Not long ago one of the molded-in attachment points for the motohead clamps broke so I have a bar clamp to temporarily keep the motor assembly tight to the canister to prevent leaks. Another of the four molded-in attachment points has also partially broken, but is still (just barely) usable. I'm reluctant to drop $75+/- for a replacement canister in this discontinued filter. So I'm considering a replacement.
(Yes, the tank is unfortunately a little small for him due to the apartment's space limitations).
I'm thinking it may be worthwhile to just buy a new canister filter. The XP3 has served well, can be a little noisy at times when it traps air at times (often due to low water level in the canister and/or vapor lock issues), the aforementioned broken attachment point for the clips is a design weakness, poorly implemented, and not robust or confidence inspiring. One of the inner basket handles snapped, not a functional issue. It's a pretty basic and simple in both build and quality ... I'd like to see some things made more robust ... but that's my impression from a general design vantage point a I have no experience whatsoever with any other filter.
What's considered a very good canister filter these days? Quiet is good but reliability, user friendliness, and ease of maintenance (disassembly/cleaning/etc.) are paramount. Although a filter that requires more frequent attention and routine maintenance isn't a problem for me, occasionally I need a friend to be a turtle caretaker if I'm out of town, which may require cleaning the filter, changing sponges, etc. then reassembling and getting things up and running properly with minimum fuss. A finicky, poorly designed, difficult to clean/disassemble/reassemble filter, or one that requires too tinkering will just exacerbate things.
Rock solid reliable, high built quality, easy to maintenance, and user friendly without requiring advanced mechanical aptitude to operate?
-The Fluval FX4 looks fantastic ... however the canister is way too wide for my built-in cabinet. Perhaps could build a new cabinet but it would be way wider than is optimal for my limited apartment space. So regrettably I think I'll pass in this one (unless I get a room and cabinet design epiphany).
-Fluval 407 looks interesting. Any user feedback on this? Weaknesses? Problems? Disappointments? Could Riley get a new one for $175ish (ebay) - $225.
-Eheim Classic 600 Canister Filter 2217. I'm unfamiliar,ilair but just read something on this apparently a simple very old design with no frills. Would this fit my criterion? Would a relative n00b be able to manage maintaining this if I'm away? Can be had for $125 new on Amazon.
-Eheim Pro 4+ 600? $225ish. Know nothing about it.
Any suggestions? Thanks a bunch!

don't have video ATM sorry for that but it never smoked before gasket replacement no oil or coolant mixing just combustion gasses in coolant and no coolant going into the combustion chamber that's what it did before i let it idle till thermos stat opened and drove it very lightly for 5 minutes at around 40kmh-50kmh due to a really out of adjustment on a set of values to avoid revving the engine more than 3k smoke level has not changed through out the drive

Hi lovelies,I wanted to start a series on basic guides for healthmaxxing topics based on data/science. This is what I am going to focus on and write up some basic guides for people over the coming month. I plan to write some posts on the basics of nutrition; exercise (strength training, cardio and flexibility), skincare, haircare; hygiene; sleep and also other health related guides and will include all easy to read references on the side so you can actually verify things (much easier than journal articles which requires some basic knowledge of stats and metrics).Prior to getting into this, I want to say all of these are my recommendations based on what I've researched and experienced (been doing this for a while and wrote up an extensive data driven guided for myself ages ago which worked for me).I know everyone has individual circumstances/experiences and so want to preface by saying whatever works for you is great but please try and make discussions/comments below value add for others reading with any data/scientific basis if you are suggesting.As a refreshe//I've written previously, my recommendations for your glow up journey starts with
Cycle 1: high reward/low risk cosmetic procedures and development of a basic grooming routine to get some confidence and feel better about yourself (about 3 months)Cycle 2: Healthmaxxing over a prolonged period (6 months - 1 year) to get yourself at the epitome of health that you can maintain for hopefully the rest of your life.Cycle 3: Hardmaxxing. Once you are at the epitome of health + have a fantastic grooming routine, you can start your surgery journey if need be and intelligently make decisions on what you actually need/have the health basis to recover.*** then cycle through again and again as you learn more.
Basic Nutrition 101Healthy Plate:
To start with, we want to understand exactly what is a healthy plate and what does it comprise of. A summary of the Harvard School of Public Health Healthy Plate Guide (https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/healthy-eating-plate/)

• Half plate = vegetables (not potatoes) and fruits. Aim for colour + variety *** note these are the carbohydrattes we want
• Quarter plate = whole grains such as wheat, barley, quinoa, oats, brown rice. Not white bread, white rice and other refined grains *** note these are the carbohydrates we want
• Quarter plate protein = mostly fish, poultry, beans (legumes + peas). Limit red meat and completely stop having processed meats
• Health plant oils in moderation such as olive oil.

Grains:
According to the Harvard School of Public Health Whole Grains Guide (https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/what-should-you-eat/whole-grains/)
Avoid:

• Anything processed
• Fried
• White grains
• Potatoes
• Highly processed foods
• Refined sugar

What to have lots of :

• 100% whole grains because whole grains because they contain three parts: the bran (fibre-filled with B vitamins and minerals, as well as phytochemicals that help with disease prevention/protect against some cancers); the germ (nutrient pack core with B vitamins, vitamin E, phytochemicals and antioxidants) and the endosperm (starchy carbohydrate middle layer with protein and some vitamins). Outside of this the components have fibre that will allow for better digestion, maintenance of steady blood sugar, prevention of small blood clots etc.
• To tell if a food is high in whole grains choose unprocessed whole grains like:AmaranthBarleyBrown riceBuckwheatBulgurMilletQuinoaRyeOatsWheat BerriesWild Rice
• Otherwise to tell if high in whole grains, Use the five USDA criteria to identify whole grains in a food product
  • Whole grain listed as first ingredient (most important thing to look at)
  • Added sugars not in the first three ingredients
  • Whole before any grain ingredient
  • Carb-fibre ratio of less than 10:1
  • Industry sponsored whole grain stamp

SUGGESTION: mix grains with lentils to get some extra protein when having rice dishes (and for a good meal, add some roast vegetables, spices and olives)
Protein
Key takeaways of some especially healthy protein sources:

• Legumes (Harvard School of Public Health Legumes guide - https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/legumes-pulses/ )
  • Legumes (including peas and beans) because they are an inexpensive source of protein, vitamins, complex carbs and fibre
  • Be more discriminate with products made from legumes such as tofu, hummus etc. because you want to be on the lookout for added sodium, sugar and saturated fat
• Canned oily fish (Harvard Medical School Article on canned fish - https://www.health.harvard.edu/newsletter_article/ask_the_doctor_is_canned_fish_good_for_the_heart and Harvard School of Public Health Fish guide - https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/fish/ )
  • Canned salmon, tuna, sardines, kippered herring, and other types of fish are pretty much on a par with fresh fish
  • They are full of health omega-3 fatty acids which are good for the heart, protect against inflammation and formation of blood clots in arteries. They also are high in vitamin D, selenium, protein and saturated fat
  • Smaller fish is better for less mercury and if you choose canned, fish canned in oil is better than water to retain more omega 3 fatty acids
  • Benefits from eating fish, outweigh costs of mercury exposure and at levels commonly consumed, there is limited and conflicting evidence for effects of mercury in adults (but those who are pregnant should be cautious and follow the above guidelines)

Getting into the specifics as based on Harvard Medical School Guide on Protein -https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/how-much-protein-do-you-need-every-day-201506188096#:~:text=For%20one%2C%20don't%20read,legumes%2C%20nuts%2C%20and%20vegetables and Harvard School of Public Health Guide on Protein - https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/what-should-you-eat/protein/
What to avoid:

• Read meat including ** *** since a few people are commenting on this, I have edited the post and included the exact links to the medical journnal research and references which the Harvard School of Public Health is basing their recommendations on (again to reduce consumption and replace with other sources). This is right at the end of the post so please read it (or directly click on the second link above to read everything for yourself). If you have alternate evidence/data pls comment it below because it's useful to all of us (rather than just saying you disagree which has no value add without the evidence to support it). I personally love red meat (though I don't eat much given what i've learned) so I'm not trying to squash the discussion but think it's useful to everyone including myself to see the evidence informing the opinions so we can all make better decisions (and I would love to learn more).
  • Beef
  • Pork
  • Lamb
  • Veal
  • Goat meat
• Processed meat
  • Bacon
  • Sausages
  • Cold cuts
• Dairy in moderation
• Soy in moderation because it has other stuff on the label which you need to pay attention to(Harvard School of Public Health quick tips - - https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/2014/02/12/5-quick-tips-choosing-healthy-protein-foods/ )

What to eat lots of:

• Legumes - and if most of the protein comes from plants, make sure you mix up sources so no essential components of protein are missing. Examples includeLentilsBeans like black, chickpeas, kidney, lima, mung, pintoPeas like green, snow, snap, splitEdamame/soybeans and products made from soy like tofu, tempeh
• NutsAlmondsPistachiosCashewsWalnutsHazelnutsPecansHelp seedsPumpkin seedsSunflower seedsFlax seedsChia seeds
• Upgrade source of animal protein to:
  • Seafood (fish, crustaceans, molluscs)
  • Eggs
  • Poultry
    • Chicken
    • Turkey
    • Duck
  • Dairy
    • In moderation of 1-2 servings a day
    • Yoghurt is better than servings all from milk and cheese
• note that animal based foods (meat, poultry, fish, eggs and dairy) tend to be good sources of complete proteins whereas plant based foods (vegetables, grains, nuts and seeds) often lack one or more amino acid.
• General guidelines: (NSCA2 )
  • Weight loss of about 1% of total bodyweight is a common guideline
  • During caloric restriction, have daily protein intake of 1.5-2g/kg of body weight
  • Consume protein prior to and immediately after a workout along with carbohydrates
  • Also better to choose higher protein foods instead of protein shakes and powders loaded with sugars (Harvard School of Public Health quick tips - https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/nutritionsource/2014/02/12/5-quick-tips-choosing-healthy-protein-foods/ )

Suggestion: Eat a variety such as eggs/canned fish breakfast, beans/poultry lunch, salmon/tofu dinner. For cheap easy eats, grain bowls with legumes and tinned fish on toast with picked vegetables is a good go.
Vegetables:
After doing an analysis via cronometer on the best foods for various micro intakes (highest amounts and most efficient), here is what I came up with:

• Fibre = Black beans; whole grains like oats; raspberries, artichoke hearts, rhubarb
• Iron = oysters, mushrooms, molluscs, spinach. Liver (and animal sources are better absorbed)
• Calcium = rhubarb, milk; cheese; yoghurt, spinach; okra, tofu,
• Vitamin A = liver (like across all sorts of liver), kale, spinach, lettuce, carrots, yellow and orange vegetables like carrots and pumpkin
• Vitamin C = acerola cherry, red and yellow peppers (particularly this), pineapple, melon, peaches, zucchini, broccoli, spinach, strawberries
• B12 = supplement
• Folate = green vegetables like edamame, asparagus, Brussel sprouts, spinach, beans, lentils, liver
• Potassium = rhubarb, amaranth leaves, legumes, Bok choy, mushrooms, leafy greens (spinach, Swiss chard)
• B1 - B12 = nutritional yeast and whole grains, also liver and mushrooms, eggs
• Vitamin D = mushrooms (all sorts!!!), super high. oily fish like salmon, mackerel, sardines, eggs
• Vitamin E = acai berry; sunflower seeds, almonds, red pepper, spinach
• Vitamin K = kale, spinach, sweet potatoes, avocados
• Copper = liver, oysters, kale, mushrooms
• Magnesium = Swiss chard, legumes, spinach, kale hemp seeds
• Manganese = acai berry; chickpeas; blueberries; brown rice, quinoa, chia seeds, liver and zucchini, peppers
• Phosphorous = milk, meat and fish hemp seeds
• Selenium = fish, nuts, eggs, mushrooms (particular tuna, oyster, mixed nuts)
• Zinc = supplement it
• Omega 3 = 3 flaxseeds; chia seeds; mackerel, salmon
• Omega 6 = sunflower seeds, pine nuts, watermelon, sweet and green peppers, kale, spinach

What can be concluded from the above about things that come up the most:

• Eat lots and lots of leafy greens! This is a fantastic bang for your buck for nutrition
• Supplement B12 and vitamin D also add in nutritional yeast
• Some seeds are particularly good like hemp seeds chia seeds; flax seeds and sunflower seeds. Add them to salads and grain bowls
• Mushrooms ( Shiitake, oyster, maitake, and king oyster mushrooms have the highest concentrations of ergothioneine. - harvard)
• Berries for antioxidants

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What I personally like to do to stay within calorie limit and meet targets
Use two apps:

• Chronometer to track intake
• Dr greger's daily dozen for inspiration and general guidelines in my head on portions (even though I am not vegan, I use it to help think about how much rice I should have or say intake of leafy greens for a side salad)

For my meal plan:
I personally find it difficult to have a new meal for all three meals and don't like to spend so much time cooking and having to come up with creative ways to meet micro goals (it's hard because there are so many). So instead I spent a few hours on cronometer to experiment several basic meals I can have during my day to hit most of my micro goals and give myself room for dinner to choose something healthy that isn't so strict.
For me this looks like a:

• Fruit smoothie in the morning with Greek yoghurt; almond milk, berries and other fruits in season. (I struggle to get calcium otherwise in my day and this is the easiest way to make sure I get it)
• 1 big grain bowl lunch OR dinner consisting of:
  • Steamed whole grain e.g. wild rice, quinoa.
  • airfried easy chicken breast OR tofu/tempeh OR fish depending on what I'm feeling like
  • Roast veges/legumes ( I change up the vegetables depending on what's in season and same with legumes depending on what I have).. To do this I simply toss 1 can of a legumes and vegetables with olive oil; spices, a bit of nutritional yeast.. For vegetables I choose vegetables in every one of the below categories for a variety of textures and will alternate depending on what is in season.
    • Round root vegetables (like beets, sweet potatoes)
    • Mushrooms (compulsory) , Bell peppers, Onions , Cherry tomatoes
    • Long root vegetables (like carrots and parsnips)
    • Cruciferous vegetables (brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli)
    • Greens
    • Soft vegetables (like other stuff, eggplant, zucchini)
    • Then to top of it off, I will add a bit of lemon juice + cheese and nuts and seeds depending on what is in the pantry
• As a snack/on the side, I will always have a big bowl of mixed greens with easy low calorie dressings I make myself with avocados, nuts, olive oil, herbs (I actually enjoy eating it separately). I don't snack otherwise
• Dinner will be anything I like that is healthy (but isn't so rigid about number of veges etc. because I already have met most of my nutritional needs already) e.g. thai cashew chicken; alison roman's shallot pasta with anchovies with a side salad; dumplings and steamed vegetables; salmon poke bowls; chicken roasts

** I always track my calories to make sure i'm eating well and this keeps me full.
​
"Research conducted at the Harvard Chan School of Public Health has found that eating even small amounts of red meat—especially processed red meat—on a regular basis is linked to an increased risk of heart disease and stroke, and the risk of dying from cardiovascular disease or any other cause. [4-6] Conversely, replacing red and processed red meat with healthy protein sources such as beans, soy foods, nuts, fish, or poultry seems to reduce these risks. One of the reasons why plant sources of protein are related to lower risk of cardiovascular disease compared to protein from red meat and dairy is because of the different types of fat in these protein packages. Plant-based protein sources are more unsaturated, which lowers LDL cholesterol—an established risk factor for heart disease. Also, plant sources contain no cholesterol. Other factors are likely to contribute to the lower risk, but this is a key factor."
​
• One investigation followed 120,000 men and women in the Nurses’ Health Study and Health Professionals Follow-Up Study for more than two decades. For every additional 3-ounce serving of unprocessed red meat the study participants consumed each day, their risk of dying from cardiovascular disease increased by 13%. [5]
Processed red meat was even more strongly linked to dying from cardiovascular disease—and in smaller amounts: every additional 1.5 ounce serving of processed red meat consumed each day (equivalent to one hot dog or two strips of bacon) was linked to a 20% increase in the risk of cardiovascular disease death.
Cutting back on red meat could save lives: the researchers estimated that if all the men and women in the study had reduced their total red and processed red meat intake to less than half a serving a day, one in ten cardiovascular disease deaths would have been prevented.
• In another study of 43,000 men that looked at both amount and sources of protein found that intake of total protein was minimally associated with heart disease risk, but intake of protein from red meat was associated with higher risk. [7]
• In the Nurse’s Health Study and the Health Professionals Follow-Up Study, every additional serving per day of red meat or processed red meat was associated with a 10% and 16% higher risk of cancer death, respectively. [5]
• In October 2015, the World Health Organization (WHO)’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) concluded that consumption of processed meat is “carcinogenic to humans,” and that consumption of red meat is “probably carcinogenic to humans.” [18] The IARC Working Group (comprised of 22 scientists from ten countries) reached these conclusions from an evaluation of over 800 studies.
Conclusions were primarily based on the evidence for colorectal cancer. Data also showed positive associations between processed meat consumption and stomach cancer, and between red meat consumption and pancreatic and prostate cancer.
• A 2014 study also found a link between high consumption of red meat during adolescence and premenopausal breast cancer, while higher intakes of poultry, nuts, and legumes were associated with lower risk. Using data on the health of 89,000 women (aged 24 to 43) followed over a 20-year period, researchers found a 22% higher risk of breast cancer in those who ate 1.5 servings of red meat per day while in high school, compared to those who only had one serving per week. Each additional daily serving of red meat seemed to increase the risk of breast cancer by another 13%. [19]
• A 2011 study found that people who ate diets high in red meat, especially processed red meat, had a higher risk of type 2 diabetes than those who rarely ate red or processed meat. [12] For each additional serving a day of red meat or processed red meat that study participants ate, their risk of diabetes rose 12% and 32%, respectively. Investigators also found that replacing a serving of red meat with one serving of nuts, low-fat dairy products, or whole grains each day was associated with an estimated 16% to 35% lower risk of type 2 diabetes.
• A related study also found that people who started eating more red meat than usual were had a 50% higher risk of developing type 2 diabetes during the next four years, and researchers also found that those who reduced red meat consumption had a 14% lower risk of type 2 diabetes over a 10-year follow-up period. [13]
​
Relevant references:

1. Bernstein AM, Sun Q, Hu FB, Stampfer MJ, Manson JE, Willett WC. Major dietary protein sources and risk of coronary heart disease in women. Circulation. 2010 Aug 31;122(9):876-83.
   
2. Pan A, Sun Q, Bernstein AM, Schulze MB, Manson JE, Stampfer MJ, Willett WC, Hu FB. Red meat consumption and mortality: results from 2 prospective cohort studies. Archives of internal medicine. 2012 Apr 9;172(7):555-63.
   
3. Bernstein AM, Pan A, Rexrode KM, Stampfer M, Hu FB, Mozaffarian D, Willett WC. Dietary protein sources and the risk of stroke in men and women. Stroke. 2011 Jan 1:STROKEAHA-111.
   
4. Preis SR, Stampfer MJ, Spiegelman D, Willett WC, Rimm EB. Dietary protein and risk of ischemic heart disease in middle-aged men–. The American journal of clinical nutrition. 2010 Sep 29;92(5):1265-72.
   
5. Halton TL, Willett WC, Liu S, Manson JE, Albert CM, Rexrode K, Hu FB. Low-carbohydrate-diet score and the risk of coronary heart disease in women. New England Journal of Medicine. 2006 Nov 9;355(19):1991-2002.
   
6. Appel LJ, Sacks FM, Carey VJ, Obarzanek E, Swain JF, Miller ER, Conlin PR, Erlinger TP, Rosner BA, Laranjo NM, Charleston J. Effects of protein, monounsaturated fat, and carbohydrate intake on blood pressure and serum lipids: results of the OmniHeart randomized trial. JAMA. 2005 Nov 16;294(19):2455-64.
   
7. Jenkins DJ, Wong JM, Kendall CW, Esfahani A, Ng VW, Leong TC, Faulkner DA, Vidgen E, Greaves KA, Paul G, Singer W. The effect of a plant-based low-carbohydrate (“Eco-Atkins”) diet on body weight and blood lipid concentrations in hyperlipidemic subjects. Archives of internal medicine. 2009 Jun 8;169(11):1046-54.
   
8. Lagiou P, Sandin S, Lof M, Trichopoulos D, Adami HO, Weiderpass E. Low carbohydrate-high protein diet and incidence of cardiovascular diseases in Swedish women: prospective cohort study. BMJ. 2012 Jun 26;344:e4026.
   
9. Pan A, Sun Q, Bernstein AM, Schulze MB, Manson JE, Willett WC, Hu FB. Red meat consumption and risk of type 2 diabetes: 3 cohorts of US adults and an updated meta-analysis–. The American journal of clinical nutrition. 2011 Aug 10;94(4):1088-96.
   
10. Pan A, Sun Q, Bernstein AM, Manson JE, Willett WC, Hu FB. Changes in red meat consumption and subsequent risk of type 2 diabetes mellitus: three cohorts of US men and women. JAMA internal medicine. 2013 Jul 22;173(14):1328-35.
    
11. Pan A, Sun Q, Bernstein AM, Manson JE, Willett WC, Hu FB. Changes in red meat consumption and subsequent risk of type 2 diabetes mellitus: three cohorts of US men and women.JAMA internal medicine. 2013 Jul 22;173(14):1328-35.
    
12. Halton TL, Liu S, Manson JE, Hu FB. Low-carbohydrate-diet score and risk of type 2 diabetes in women–. The American journal of clinical nutrition. 2008 Feb 1;87(2):339-46.
    
13. Åkerblom HK, Vaarala O, Hyöty H, Ilonen J, Knip M. Environmental factors in the etiology of type 1 diabetes. American journal of medical genetics. 2002 May 30;115(1):18-29.
    
14. Vaarala O, Ilonen J, Ruohtula T, Pesola J, Virtanen SM, Härkönen T, Koski M, Kallioinen H, Tossavainen O, Poussa T, Järvenpää AL. Removal of bovine insulin from cow’s milk formula and early initiation of beta-cell autoimmunity in the FINDIA pilot study. Archives of pediatrics & adolescent medicine. 2012 Jul 1;166(7):608-14.
    
15. Bouvard V, Loomis D, Guyton KZ, Grosse Y, El Ghissassi F, Benbrahim-Tallaa L, Guha N, Mattock H, Straif K. Carcinogenicity of consumption of red and processed meat. The Lancet Oncology. 2015 Dec 1;16(16):1599-600.
    
16. Farvid MS, Cho E, Chen WY, Eliassen AH, Willett WC. Adolescent meat intake and breast cancer risk. International journal of cancer. 2015 Apr 15;136(8):1909-20.
    

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2010 Prius. Very rough idle. Codes P0016 P0340 P0403 P3190 Back story: Car was running fine, then, one day it started running like it was missing terribly, warning light, check engine, etc.
It ran similar to this event before and we figured out it was the egr cooler fully plugged, and EGR valve.These were replaced. Car ran fine for a while.
Then we had a head gasket issue. We replaced the head gasket. Car ran fine for a while.
Brings us to current event. Driving fine then terrible running, shaking, dash lights up, won't run. This was six months ago. It has sat since then. At the time, the codes were related to the timing/crank and cam sensors being out of sync.
I assumed that the chain, which had never been replaced as far as we know (bought used about 50k ago) either was stretched, the tensioner was bad or possibly slipped a tooth etc.
So, this past week I did the timing chain. New Toyota OEM chain, guides, tensioner, timing sprockets, oil sprockets, oil pump chain. The works.
When disassembling the crank timing oil chain sprocket was found broken right at the keyway. The chain was essentially holding it in place. One the chain was removed it just fell.off The crank sensor timing plate behind it, they keyway was all hammered and the timing sensor plate was sloppy on the crank because the keyway was hammered. This is something I have never seen, granted I've only done about a dozen timing belts and chains in the last 30 years, so I have very limited experience.
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor plate from Toyota. I had the new sprocket already. I assembled everything. Ensuring that the cams and crank were timed correctly, then before putting the covers back on permanently, I spun it by hand and ensured that the crank pulley/dampener and timing marks on the cam sprockets all lined up as they were supposed to. All looked great, so I put it all back together.
Car batteries were dead. Of course from sitting so long. Put a jump pack on it and then turned the car on.
It started. Ran and purred like a kitten for about 10 seconds then started running like it was missing terribly. Shaking etc.
I put it in neutral and it idled fine. Wouldn't increase RPM because the check engine lights and etc all can back on, but it idled in neutral great! Put it in drive with foot on the brake and it started the violent sharing and stumbling, back to neutral, and it idled fine. Back to park and it started shaking and stumbling again.
Shut it off. Cleared the codes.
Started it again. Same behavior as before. Starts. And runs like great for about 10 seconds, then suddenly it doesn't't know what time it is... in neutral, purrs like it's supposed to, into park and shakes and misses like before.
Initially when I saw the broken sprocket and sloppy crank sensor plate, I thought that may have been the reason this all started. The crank sensor couldn't consistently pick up the timing and confused everything else. Now Part of me thinks that this violent shaking and stumbling may have been what broke the sprocket and allowed the key way for the sensor to get sloppy.
So here I am. With the codes above showing.
Could the ECM be bad? What else could be the issue? The oil drained had no coolant. The coolant had no oil.
I need help for further diagnosis.. I am pretty handy.. I know enough to get my self in trouble.. as you can see.
Is there something I can do without tearing down the timing chain cover again?
Edited .. added the below info. I have found that the 12v battery will not hold a charge so I think it was only starting under the power of the jump pack and not the battery. Once the 60 seconds of "start engine" power from the jump pack, times out. The motor dies. Of course in neutral the traction battery does not charge and I can't keep it running in park because of the violent shaking. Could it be just really weak spark? Would the spark voltage required change from park to neutral? It seems so odd that neutral seems to run fine but park/drive no Bueno..

This has been a bit of a saga but I'll try to keep it short. My Focus (manual) stalls when cold. Have replaced the pcv valve and hose, idle control valve, plugs and thermostat (because it randomly overheated once in the middle of this saga and not again since replacing). There is no code. It's had a head gasket test and compression test. Cleaned residue off throttle plate. No vacuum leak. First mechanic didn't want to diagnose and said take it elsewhere, second mechanic said 'Just keep driving it and see what happens'. It is now with a retired mechanic who says that the engine itself is in good condition. He checked the leads. Put the scan tool on it and there's nothing. He's slowly and systematically checking bits and pieces on it, head temperature sensor is working, same with MAF sensor. One big issue is that the mechanics in our area have heaps of work on and most I've called don't want to diagnose or it's a long wait. It took 8 weeks of waiting for the last one to look at it and 5 weeks for the one before. Has anyone had this problem and what was the culprit because it would be great to have some things to test/rule out. It's at 150000ish km and the timing was done at 100000. Had a new alternator and starter a year ago. New air filter recently. I have very little mechanical knowledge as you can probably tell. I've gone through various forums and YouTube clips looking for ideas but everything I've found has already been checked. Waiting to hear if the injectors are okay today. Ideas? Retired mechanic has a spine injury and needs lots of breaks + can't do everything which is why this now a slow process and I'm fine with it. I just really love my little car.

So, I will be honest and admit I am not a mechanic, but I have an issue that has stumped me, and the mechanic at the dealership. I have a cylinder 8 misfire (p0308 code on the scanner), but it only really misfires around 30 miles an hour, or occasionally at 55ish mph. They checked the part plugs (brand new and no oil on them), and the plug wiring (already replaced), compression tested the gasket, and the fuel pressure, and could not find a reason for the misfire. This cylinder did have a different spark plug than the others when we bought it (long story there about the condition), but I am not sure if that would have had a major effect. Is there something simple that I'm looking over, or is it a more involved problem that might require tearing into the engine?
More vehicle details:
2001 Chevy Express 3500, 1 Ton School Bus Conversion
5.7 l v8
30-gallon fuel tank from a Silverado
Virtually every oil hose has been replaced, as well as the fuel line, injectors, spark plugs, hydro-boost pump, as well as the fuel pump (though the fuel pump has an odd quirk where it stalls at exactly half a tank, so we can never fully use the range).
The AC system and oil pressure also bog down when the light comes on, but I assume it's related to the drop in power when misfiring.
I appreciate your insight!

My CT (2014 with almost 150k) is throwing P0300-304 misfire codes. It’s recently had a lot of needed maintenance done, and yet these codes remain.
In the last 2 weeks it’s gotten new spark plugs and coils, egr cleaned, intake manifold cleaned, regular scheduled oil change, and certainly not least - the head gasket replaced.
The only thing I’m seeing that it might be is possibly the fuel injectors. . . Anyone have any insight ? 🤞🏼

Ok guys and gals, I'm stumped. My wife's car, '14 Escape SE 1.6L Ecoboost 60k miles, has been having recurring overheating problems the past month. A year and a half ago I had to replace the cylinder head temp sensor and it's pigtail connector. Everything fine since then. A few weeks ago she started getting regular overheat warnings, low coolant warnings and going into limp mode.
I changed out the thermostat/ housing (one self contained unit if you didn't know) and one of the radiator hoses in which I found was cracked and slowly leaking (small diameter crossover line w/ 3 branches to degas bottle, back of head and radiator).
I've bled and topped off the system, levels are as they should be, water pump works fine. Still she gets an overheat condition when driving for longer than 20 minutes, especially with the ac on high. I've found no signs of coolant and oil mixing, so I don't think it's the head gasket.
Any help is appreciated.

Hello! My mom has a 2014 Ford Escape with a 1.6 ecoboost engine. The car has been blowing white smoke out the exhaust for a few months. The car drives fine, other than occasional overheating if the vehicles coolant is not topped off. So long as the coolant is full, there is no overheating issues. The coolant levels seem to be mostly stable while driving it, but after its parked, even for just a few minutes it leaks coolant all over the ground. There is no milky color in the oil, the oil looks slightly burnt but otherwise fine. The car has 130k miles on it. Is there anything I can do to be more sure if it’s the turbo that’s blown or the head gasket (or something else) before I go replacing things unnecessarily. Thank you!

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so I wanted to ask if this car was safe to drive and what was causing the smoke. I would really appreciate any insight.
The car is a 2004 Acura TL V6. I haven't used the car in 6 weeks and over that time I've had my battery disconnected. The car started fine after reconnecting the battery but a second later I noticed a decent amount of smoke coming from the hood. I quickly turned off the car and recorded this video. The smoke is coming from the area between the engine and the front bumper. If it's helpful, my dad (who I'm borrowing the car from) said his mechanic replaced the head gasket about a year ago because smoke was coming from the hood.
https://reddit.com/link/13zltvy/video/9a96epwknu3b1/player

I know this topic has been beat over the head but I just wanted to ask a question. I’ve recently done a clutch replacement and put in an extra plate Barnett racing clutch on my 08 XL1200N. When I did the replacement I put 75w90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in primary. Couple days ago I went to do a clutch adjustment after about 500 miles and when I opened up my derby cover I noticed a sulfur smell and the oil was a grayish blue color so I decided I’d swap it out with redline v twin fluid and replaced the derby cover gasket as I should have when I did the clutch (I did replace the primary cover seal but forgot to buy a derby gasket when I was at the store), I immediately noticed a difference in how smooth the bike shifted and it seems like it grabs gears fasteharder, BUT I guess this fluid is 75w80 and made for the bigger bikes. So I guess my question is, what could the harm be if I just kept running this fluid? And should I just go back to Mobil 1 75w90 or maybe try the redline 75w90? Or just use 20w50 JASO MA oil??? What are you guys running? I really like the performance of this 75w80 fluid but don’t want to cause any harm to my transmission as I do ride pretty hard and I want to put the best stuff I can in my bike so I can do so without feeling as bad lol.

I’m trying to repair my Jeep since it blew a hole in the cylinder head. I removed the head and replaced it with a junkyard one. I checked the squareness of it and also replaced the timing kit and head gasket since I seen cylinder 2 had a valve imprint on the piston. I think this is what caused the hole in the first place. Anyway, I get everything done and it won’t turn over. So I did a compression test and bank 1 cylinders were all pretty great. It wasn’t till I checked bank 2 that I seen that none of the cylinders had ANY compression at all.
Did I mess up the timing job? Or the head gasket?
This one’s my first big job and good thing it can wait since I have another daily. Whenever I was replacing the timing kit I accidentally dropped the cam sprocket and thought picking it up with a magnet wasn’t gonna harm anything. But turns out it has a reluctor ring. Would this SOMEHOW cause 0 compression since it would prevent a start? Or am I going to have to remove the head again and redo everything?

Recently got a 2021 Subaru legacy and whenever I start the engine up rpms are usually a little bit above 2000rpms and the motor is screaming loud car was originally a rental few states over it's my belief that car was redlined when it was driven to my state just wondering if this is a common thing or if I should get rid of it because it feels like I was sold a lemon and it already had to spend 4 days at the dealership being worked on head gaskets were already replaced seems to me that there's some extreme warped internals on the motor Subaru seems to put a very cheap lack luster motor into a sleak looking exterior car to trick people into thinking there cars are super good car also already had to have a coolant hose replaced but it did come from a cold location to a much warmer climate so it's more understable to me why that already broke just curious if other 2021 legacy owners notice that when they start there engines its extremely loud and I know it's a boxer engine but it still shouldn't be in such high rpms while it's idle any feedback would be highly appreciated.

I have a Husqvarna zero turn with a Briggs and Stratton 19hp single cylinder engine (33S877 0010 G1). Was cutting grass and there was a big bang and it died right off. A little off investigation and right away noticed no compression. Pulled spark plug right away noticed that the piston head wasn't moving when I spun the output shaft by hand. Pulled exhaust and carb off both valves are moving when output shaft is spun by hand. Pulled the head off and head gasket looks like it had a bit of a leak into the chamber where the valve push rods are. I know a bit about engines but and I'm more than willing to attempt to fix it my self for just the parts but I don't think it's worth bringing it away for repairs as it's about a 10 year old mower with a fair bit of hours and a crappy deck. If I do decide to attempt to rebuild it my self what other parts should I be replacing at the same time? Any tips or things to look for?

I’ve got a 2008 chevy avalanche with the “premium” Bose sound system. The passenger door speaker recently went out. It looks like a 6.5” or so.
I want to replace it, but have heard conflicting info on what the ohm are for the speaker. I want to replace it with something that’ll sound decent. I’ve got a stock non-navigation head unit. Eventually I’d like to replace the headunit with something that has a screen and a backup camera. But I’m not really looking for a big amp and super custom system. The oem Bose speakers were fine when they were still working.

I’ve got a 2008 chevy avalanche with the “premium” Bose sound system. The passenger door speaker recently went out. It looks like a 6.5” or so.
I want to replace it, but have heard conflicting info on what the ohm are for the speaker. I want to replace it with something that’ll sound decent. I’ve got a stock non-navigation head unit. Eventually I’d like to replace the headunit with something that has a screen and a backup camera. But I’m not really looking for a big amp and super custom system. The oem Bose speakers were fine when they were still working.

Hi everyone! Just joined the community. I’m picking up a ‘23 Wilderness at the dealership soon, using VIP pricing and a loyalty coupon. I had them look at my trade-in already (maybe not the best move, but with the VIP pricing, my price is basically fixed, as I understand it) and was wondering what people think of the offer.
I have a 2010 2.5x Forester with 137,000 miles on it. The body does have a few minor dings and the bumper has some scrapes and scuffs. There is a little rodent upholstery damage in the back seat around the latch hookups. The tires are in need of replacing, and the head gaskets are going again as well. Also, a rear wheel bearing and some exhaust work that I think was quoted around $1200. Dealer offered me $2k initially and I asked for $2500 which they quickly agreed to. This is in mid-high Fair territory for KBB trade-in value. I know I could get more on the private market, but just don’t want to deal with it.
Is $2500 close enough, considering I’m getting the other deals or should i push for a little more?
Thanks for any advice - I’ll share more on the Wilderness once I have it!
UPDATE: My dealership let me know everything was ready with the new car, so I went with the trade offer and picked up my new Wilderness! It’s raining today but I’ll post up a picture soon.
The experience was overall not bad. The salesperson was great to work with, but F&I was just about as painful as you’d expect, pushing non-Subaru extended warranties at crazy prices. I’m actually still not sure if I got screwed with the APR - the online calculator and others online say 60 month APR should be 4.9 with Subaru/Chase. I argued this and showed the website with that rate but she said the rate sheet is 5.9 and that’s that. My credit is well over 800 so I know that isn’t the issue. Anyways, I might follow up next week with Subaru Finance just out of curiosity. (If this type of discussion is frowned upon here, I’ll happily edit it out).
Love the car so far - it’s just what I want/need. It’s familiar enough coming from the 2010 but also has tons of new cool features. Looking forward to taking it on some adventures!